Kibera is the largest slum in Nairobi, and the second largest urban slum in Africa.
And I went in.
I have Kenyan friends who have never seen the gates of Kibera. I had Ugandan friends who had never been to Northern Uganda. Both groups gripped with rumours of conflict/crime/war/disease...I dont know, whatever negative media splash and horror stories they chose to indulge in. But I figured why be in a particular country and not get the true experience of what its like to be an average person there? (That and I just like things) (And I needed a new blogpost)
So I went in.
It all began when my extremely cheerful and helpful fruit-guy from Kenyatta Market was so extremely cheerful and helpful that I had a very long conversation with him. (He had also given me an extra onion a week ago.) (I'm really trying to avoid the parentheses....but I can't help it. Most of my life is about side-notes) ANYWAY, so we got a-talking and he mentioned that he could show me around Kibera if I ever had a free afternoon. I was wildly excited and sent texts to my friends to show off my latest crazy adventure idea. They all said it had been nice knowing me.
A couple of sundays later I was ready for the excursion. I had purposed to dress down so as to fit in. But my All-star Trainers looked too clean I suspect. The Mr Price jumper, which is the oldest in my closest, did not look so old as we walked towards the slum. I stuck out like a sore thumb. But I left all my valuables, carrying only 500Sh as emergency money (in case my guide turned out to be some sort of psycho and abandoned me in the middle of Kibera) and my oldest phone (fine, its my only phone but thankfully its old and would gladly give it to any thief). I was making sure I was not object of attraction for 'thugs'.
I am a natural rebel. I wanted to prove that Kibera is not the worst place ever. If it can house almost 2 million people, then there must be some good in it. Kibera is one of the most studied slums in the world because it sits at the centre of a modern city and also because the UN fancies it. Ban Ki Moon visited it once. And it shows. The place has a hundred Not-for profit set ups everywhere. Everyone is trying to save Kibera but it makes me wonder, how much do these organisations know about what the residents of Kibera really need? Its one thing throwing money at someone, it's another, helping them set up their own jobs and income-generating projects. But that's another blogpost for a different blog. (Not mine)
So, yes the people are normal. Two arms, two legs. And smiles. Smiles and laughs and giggles! I was shocked to see the happiness. Thats the one thing which I'm sure you did not know. For those of you who've never been to Kenya, the people here look angry most of the time. Its like there's beef when they're crossing the road, like they are heading over to beat up the guy selling airtime. There was a feel of community unity as my tour-guide greeted several people as we walked through.
We crossed through several villages, as they call them. Some villages are more developed than others. Ranging from small mud-like structures to 2 storey establisments with impressive construct. There had been rains so it was very muddy but I was told even when its not raining the sewer system ensures a muddy walk on some paths.
There were hawkers selling clothes for 'miya miya'..thats equivalent to about 1 and a half US Dollars along the way. Of course my bargain antennaes were set alight but I resisted. There is a railway line which goes through the slum (called Uganda Line) which defines an area called 'Line Saba', then we went through to this huge field where several football games were taking place on different sides of the pitch. I wanted to do that thing of joining in for a moment of dribbling brilliance in one of the games and waving like the true superstar that I am typical of a Coca Cola advert but I was too tense cautiously feeling for my 500Sh note at all times.
My guide took me to visit the house he grew up in. I was introduced to his mom and other relatives. As I walked in the single room was transformed in seconds from a kitchen to a sitting room. Even the toddlers around were suddenly sitting at my feet looking up at me with curiosity. I mustered up my best swahili and surprisingly had a nice conversation with the family.
Kibera is big. I walked for over 2 hours, very briskly and still didn't finish it. One thing that made me laugh was that on top of all the delapidated structures were TV antennae and satellite dishes. Kenya is the Nation of News for sure. They call it being informed. Its like everyday they wait anxiously for all the bad things politicians will do. But in a country as big and as volatile as this one it is advisable to keep abreast with the latest news I guess.
My trip to Kibera ended on a high note. My guide bought me 4 hot mandazi's straight from the pan. (Delicious). I sustained a groin injury from the falling into ditches and trying to keep the walk brisk. The mud did not help. But I felt thoroughly alive when I walked out alive. No one tried to rape me or steal from me.
It is home for so many people. People who are trying to change their circumstances. Proud people who try and create good homes and send their children to school so that the future is less grim. The visit has ensured me that any help I want to give to the people of Kibera will have to be thoroughly thought out. It will have to be 'teach them how to fish' kind of help...and not 'give them a fish'.
I'm glad I went. It was cool.
And I went in.
I have Kenyan friends who have never seen the gates of Kibera. I had Ugandan friends who had never been to Northern Uganda. Both groups gripped with rumours of conflict/crime/war/disease...I dont know, whatever negative media splash and horror stories they chose to indulge in. But I figured why be in a particular country and not get the true experience of what its like to be an average person there? (That and I just like things) (And I needed a new blogpost)
So I went in.
It all began when my extremely cheerful and helpful fruit-guy from Kenyatta Market was so extremely cheerful and helpful that I had a very long conversation with him. (He had also given me an extra onion a week ago.) (I'm really trying to avoid the parentheses....but I can't help it. Most of my life is about side-notes) ANYWAY, so we got a-talking and he mentioned that he could show me around Kibera if I ever had a free afternoon. I was wildly excited and sent texts to my friends to show off my latest crazy adventure idea. They all said it had been nice knowing me.
A couple of sundays later I was ready for the excursion. I had purposed to dress down so as to fit in. But my All-star Trainers looked too clean I suspect. The Mr Price jumper, which is the oldest in my closest, did not look so old as we walked towards the slum. I stuck out like a sore thumb. But I left all my valuables, carrying only 500Sh as emergency money (in case my guide turned out to be some sort of psycho and abandoned me in the middle of Kibera) and my oldest phone (fine, its my only phone but thankfully its old and would gladly give it to any thief). I was making sure I was not object of attraction for 'thugs'.
I am a natural rebel. I wanted to prove that Kibera is not the worst place ever. If it can house almost 2 million people, then there must be some good in it. Kibera is one of the most studied slums in the world because it sits at the centre of a modern city and also because the UN fancies it. Ban Ki Moon visited it once. And it shows. The place has a hundred Not-for profit set ups everywhere. Everyone is trying to save Kibera but it makes me wonder, how much do these organisations know about what the residents of Kibera really need? Its one thing throwing money at someone, it's another, helping them set up their own jobs and income-generating projects. But that's another blogpost for a different blog. (Not mine)
So, yes the people are normal. Two arms, two legs. And smiles. Smiles and laughs and giggles! I was shocked to see the happiness. Thats the one thing which I'm sure you did not know. For those of you who've never been to Kenya, the people here look angry most of the time. Its like there's beef when they're crossing the road, like they are heading over to beat up the guy selling airtime. There was a feel of community unity as my tour-guide greeted several people as we walked through.
We crossed through several villages, as they call them. Some villages are more developed than others. Ranging from small mud-like structures to 2 storey establisments with impressive construct. There had been rains so it was very muddy but I was told even when its not raining the sewer system ensures a muddy walk on some paths.
There were hawkers selling clothes for 'miya miya'..thats equivalent to about 1 and a half US Dollars along the way. Of course my bargain antennaes were set alight but I resisted. There is a railway line which goes through the slum (called Uganda Line) which defines an area called 'Line Saba', then we went through to this huge field where several football games were taking place on different sides of the pitch. I wanted to do that thing of joining in for a moment of dribbling brilliance in one of the games and waving like the true superstar that I am typical of a Coca Cola advert but I was too tense cautiously feeling for my 500Sh note at all times.
My guide took me to visit the house he grew up in. I was introduced to his mom and other relatives. As I walked in the single room was transformed in seconds from a kitchen to a sitting room. Even the toddlers around were suddenly sitting at my feet looking up at me with curiosity. I mustered up my best swahili and surprisingly had a nice conversation with the family.
Kibera is big. I walked for over 2 hours, very briskly and still didn't finish it. One thing that made me laugh was that on top of all the delapidated structures were TV antennae and satellite dishes. Kenya is the Nation of News for sure. They call it being informed. Its like everyday they wait anxiously for all the bad things politicians will do. But in a country as big and as volatile as this one it is advisable to keep abreast with the latest news I guess.
My trip to Kibera ended on a high note. My guide bought me 4 hot mandazi's straight from the pan. (Delicious). I sustained a groin injury from the falling into ditches and trying to keep the walk brisk. The mud did not help. But I felt thoroughly alive when I walked out alive. No one tried to rape me or steal from me.
It is home for so many people. People who are trying to change their circumstances. Proud people who try and create good homes and send their children to school so that the future is less grim. The visit has ensured me that any help I want to give to the people of Kibera will have to be thoroughly thought out. It will have to be 'teach them how to fish' kind of help...and not 'give them a fish'.
I'm glad I went. It was cool.
Now trust me, walking around Nairobi city center street is more dangerous that walking around Kibera. And there are organizations teaching how to fish..in this case how to make films. US
ReplyDeleteThanks for sharing your experience....I already feel inspired to think up my own "crazy adventure idea". I believe you get to see more than the superficial through the eyes of humble people, like those of Kibera. I wish you all the best in your endeavor to help out.
ReplyDeletehey Daktari i do like your taste of language and humor,
ReplyDeleteit's a challenge to most 'N Go's and Kenyan's in particular who only hear about Kibera and yet they don't know the real experience or even a clue of how it looks.
Now since you visited can you be my guide to the same?
fantastic stee, love it! I watched a show called Famous, Rich and in the Slums which was based in Kibera and it was heartbreaking as well as heart warming.
ReplyDeleteWow, I am only seeing these comments now! It was a long time ago but still very endearing experience. I have since visted Mathare slum and much of the same happened. Shocked at how normal it was! Been inspired to attend medical missions in those areas to help out.
ReplyDelete